Tour Feature 1: 'Ulu

Breadfruit
Artocarpus altilis
Moraceae, Fig Family
Polynesian Introduction

The Polynesians brought about 27 different species of useful plants to Hawai'i. Some of these plants had been propagated by humans for so long they no longer reproduced from seed. This variety of 'ulu is an example. Small plants and cuttings had to be carefully packed to survive the long journey in their voyaging canoes. 'Ulu, or breadfruit, is the staple food in much of Polynesia, especially the Marquesas Islands. It is easy to grow, high in complex carbohydrates, and a good source of vitamin B and calcium. The tree was useful in many ways. The gummy sap served as canoe caulk and the leaves and leaf sheaths provided fine sandpaper for polishing kukui nuts and wooden bowls. 'Ulu wood was carved into musical instruments, surfboards and small canoes.

Breadfruit has also traveled with humans more recently. Remember the story of Mutiny on the Bounty? In 1788, Captain Bligh of the H.M.S. Bounty set sail from Tahiti. His cargo was a load of young breadfruit trees destined for the Caribbean Islands as a food crop, but the trees required so much of the ship's water supply that the thirsty crew finally mutinied.

Even today, breadfruit has enormous potential as a nutritious food. The National Tropical Botanical Garden (NTBG) has assembled the world's largest collection of breadfruit at Kahanu Garden on the island of Maui in order to study and preserve this important crop. More than 150 varieties from 16 Pacific island groups are represented.

Tour Feature 2: Kalo

Taro
Colocasia esculenta
Araceae, Aroid Family
Polynesian Introduction

The rock walls terracing this area are part of an important archaeological site. Recent carbon dating confirms that these walls are about 700 years old. Known in Hawaiian as lo'i kalo, these terraces were part of an agricultural system developed by the Hawaiians to grow kalo, their most important crop. Water was diverted from Limahuli stream and brought to the lo'i kalo through a series of carefully engineered canals known as 'auwai Because the stream was their most important resource, the Hawaiians diverted less than half of the water in the stream to flow through the lo'i kalo. Then they carefully returned this water to the main stream channel.

Kalo, commonly known today as taro, was the staple food of the ancient Hawaiians. Every part of the kalo plant is edible when cooked. If kalo is not cooked thoroughly, it contains tiny crystals of calcium oxalate which cause an extremely irritating reaction in the mouth and throat. Cooked kalo corms (underground stems) are eaten like potatoes or mashed and mixed with water to make poi. Kalo corms are rich in carbohydrates andare good sources of minerals and vitamins A and B. The leaves, known as lu'au, taste like spinach and contain minerals and vitamins A, B, and C. The Hawaiians, who were highly skilled gardeners, eventually named more than 300 different varieties of kalo. Several varieties are growing in these lo'i kalo. Can you see the differences?

The early Hawaiians honored kalo as an important part of their family. This relationship is remembered in an ancient chant about creation and the birth of the first two sons of Wakea, the god of the sky. The first son was born as an oddly shaped and apparently lifeless mass, and Wakea buried him near his house. The next day the first kalo plant grew from the grave. Wakea named this plant-child Hāloa-naka (long trembling stem). The second son was a baby boy, and Wakea named him Hāloa (long stem). Hāloa was the first human and the common ancestor of all people. Recognizing kalo as the first-born son of Wakea, Hawaiians loved, respected and cared for the kalo plant as their older brother. In turn, this older brother has fed his Hawaiian family for untold generations.

The Hawaiian word for family, 'oHāna, also comes from the kalo plant. As a kalo plant matures, offshoots known as 'oha grow up in a circle around the parent plant. In time, these 'oha mature and produce another generation of kalo. As this cycle continues, a single parent plant can eventually produce enough offspring to fill an entire lo'i kalo. To the early Hawaiians, this growth pattern of kalo was a model for their extended family, or 'oHāna, which literally means "many 'oha."

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 3: Kī

Ti
Cordyline fruticosa
Agavaceae, Agave Family
Polynesian Introduction

This Polynesian plant earned a place in the voyaging canoes because of its many uses. Feel the leaves and you can probably guess what some of the uses are. The smooth and waxy surface repels water and makes the large leaves very useful as a wrapper when storing or cooking food, as material for fashioning rain capes and sandals, and as thatch for houses. If you have an opportunity to eat pork or chicken laulau, it is kī leaves that wrap the ingredients for cooking.

Kī was considered sacred to the early Hawaiians and was an emblem of high rank and divine power. The Hawaiian feather staff, known as the kahili, was probably designed to resemble the ki plant. Kī was worn or carried as protection against evil spirits and was an important part of ancient ceremonial rituals. You will often see kī planted around modern homes, a practice handed down from ancient times to protect the home from harm, and the leaves are still used in modern rituals, especially at opening ceremonies and to bless new buildings.

Kī is another plant that has lost its ability to reproduce from seed even though it is sometimes decorated with sprays of small lily-like flowers. Red varieties, introduced to Hawai'i in modern times, do reproduce from seed and have been hybridized to form many beautiful leaf colors ranging from orange to dark red.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 4: Hō'i'o

Fiddlehead Fern
Diplazium esculentum
Dryopteridaceae, Wood Fern Family
Modern Introduction

Hō'i'o is the Hawaiian name for a native fern that grows in the mountains, one of the few edible native plants. The fern you see here is a modern introduction but is so similar to its Hawaiian relative that the Hawaiians gave it the same name. The young, tightly coiled leaves, known as fiddleheads, are a favorite Hawaiian food, especially when served with the native freshwater shrimp called 'ōpae. We know hō'i'o was enjoyed by early Hawaiians because it plays an important role in an ancient legend about some very unusual sisters.

In the distant past, there were four Piliwale sisters who had ravenous appetites and roamed Hawai'i looking for food. No matter how much they ate, they were never satisfied. As you can imagine, they were very unwelcome guests wherever they went. When two of the sisters came to Kaua'i, the chief of Hā'ena, Lohiau, and his sister, Kahua-nui, devised a plan to stop the Piliwale sisters. They invited them to the mountain top for a hula show and an elaborate feast of many courses, saving their irresistible favorite, hō'i'o and 'ōpae, for last. The sisters were so busy gulping down this final course, they did not notice that dawn was approaching. Lohiau had planned well, knowing that the Piliwale sisters would turn to stone if touched by a ray of sunlight. When the sisters finally saw the sun's light, they shrieked and ran down the mountain to reach their cave, but they never made it. You can see for yourself. Their silhouettes are visible on the ridge above the dry cave near the 9-mile marker. They stand as a warning to the other two sisters. "Hā'ena is no place for a Piliwale to visit!"

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 5: Wauke

Paper Mulberry
Broussonetia papyrifera
Moraceae, Fig Family
Polynesian Introduction

Can you imagine cloth made from bark? The Hawaiians made not only clothing, but bedding and other articles from the inner bark of plants. Their favorite plant for making bark cloth, or kapa, was wauke. It grows easily, sending up new plants from underground roots. As you can see, there are young plants growing all around this area.

Many steps were involved in making kapa. Stems of wauke, approximately 10 feet long, were cut from the plant, and the bark was stripped off in one piece. The brown outermost layer was removed with a sharpened shell. The white inner bark contains many long fibers. Repeated soaking, pounding, and finally aging between banana leaves softened the fibers. Layers of these fibers were then beaten together to form thin sheets of cloth. The Hawaiian kapa, with a softness similar to muslin, was considered the finest bark cloth in Polynesia. To add beauty, kapa was often dyed, decorated with designs, and even scented with perfumes derived from fragrant plants.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 6: Mai'a

Banana
Musa acuminata hybrids
Musaceae, Banana Family
Polynesian Introduction

Mai'a, or banana, added variety and nutrition to the Hawaiian diet and was an important Polynesian introduction. Today, only a few varieties of bananas find their way into the marketplace. In old Hawai'i as many as 50 named varieties were grown. Some of these varieties had interesting names and growth habits, such as: 'ele'ele, so-called because of the blackness of its trunk; mahoe, or twins, a single trunk bearing two bunches of fruit; and hāpai, or pregnant banana, a very unusual variety in which the fruit actually matures within the trunk of the plant, causing a large bulge and a pregnant appearance. Mai'a was often planted in the mountains to provide food for extended journeys and times of famine.

Banana plants are actually giant herbs, which means they have no woody tissue. The trunk is composed of tightly-layered leaf sheaths. Each trunk bears fruit only once, then dies. New shoots grow up around the base of the trunk and form a clump of banana plants. Since most bananas do not produce seeds, these clumps are divided to establish new plantings.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 7: 'Ōlena

Turmeric
Curcuma domestica
Zingiberaceae, Ginger Family
Polynesian Introduction

Like many of the Polynesian introductions, this member of the ginger family is a very ancient plant. Hawaiians used the rhizomes (underground stems) of 'ālena for many purposes: to make medicine for ear-aches and nasal congestion, as a purifying agent in certain religious ceremonies, and as a source of beautiful yellow, gold and mustard dyes for coloring kapa.

Records date the cultivation of this plant back to the 8th century B.C. in the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. It has also been cultivated for thousands of years in India where the rhizomes are ground into a powder known as turmeric. If turmeric sounds familiar, check the ingredients in curry powder; it's one of the main spices used and the source of curry's orange color.

'Ōlena blooms briefly in summer and goes dormant in winter. If the leaves have died back, look for the rhizomes along the surface of the soil.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 8: Kō

Sugar Cane
Saccharum officinarum
Poaceae, Grass Family
Polynesian Introduction

Long before it was introduced as a commercial crop in the 1800s, sugar cane, known as kō to the Hawaiians, was important enough to be carried in the canoes of early Polynesian settlers. Hawaiians planted kō in colorful clumps near their homes, and used it for food, flavoring and medicinal purposes. Peeled sections of stem were chewed for a snack, and adults encouraged children to chew the fibrous stems to keep their teeth clean and healthy.

In winter months mature sugar cane forms large silvery flower tassels. The ancient Hawaiians played a popular game with darts made from the tassels. For more exciting recreation, they scattered the tassels on hillsides to create a slippery surface for Hawaiian-style sledding.

In modern times sugar cane has made many fortunes, influenced politics, fueled the overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom, and changed the face of the land. Though not as abundant as in the past, emerald fields of sugar cane still cover thousands of acres around the state.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 9: 'Awapuhi

Shampoo Ginger
Zingiber zerumbet
Zingiberaceae, Ginger Family
Polynesian Introduction

Commonly known as shampoo ginger, this Polynesian-introduced plant is the dominant ground cover in the Limahuli forest during summer. The ancient Hawaiians used 'awapuhi for shampoo, medicine and to scent kapa. In the late summer months, red or purple flower heads develop which contain a soapy, highly romatic sap. Squeezed over the head, the sap makes a fragrant shampoo. Today, several commercial shampoos are made from 'awapuhi.

Like 'ōlena (Feature #7), 'awapuhi is a member of the ginger family and goes dormant in the winter months when its rhizomes are easily seen along the surface of the soil. Although the rhizomes resemble edible ginger, they are not the same. Edible ginger, Zingiber officinale, is native to Asia and more difficult to grow in Hawai'i than 'awapuhi.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 10: Kukui

Candlenut Tree
Aleurites moluccana
Euphorbiaceae, Spurge Family
Polynesian Introduction

The Polynesians brought this attractive tree to Hawai'i for many purposes. The common name, candlenut tree, comes from its use to produce light. The kukui nuts' inner kernels were dried, skewered onto the midrib of a coconut frond and set on fire to make a "candle" that burned for about 45 minutes. The kernels burn because they are fifty percent oil. Hawaiians extracted the oil for many uses: to shine and waterproof wooden bowls, to mix with charcoal to make black canoe paint, and to burn in stone lamps to provide light. Fishermen chewed the kernels and spit them onto the surface of the water because the oil increased their visibility of the reef below. The kernels were roasted, mashed, mixed with sea salt and eaten as a tasty relish. The hard shells surrounding the kernels were polished and strung into lei, a craft that is still popular today Other parts of the kukui tree were useful as a source of medicine, wood, dye and organic matter to enrich the soil.

Kukui is the official state tree of Hawai'i. The silvery green leaves make it easy to recognize. As you walk through Limahuli you see kukui trees that have successfully naturalized and spread into the native forest. Why is it spreading today? The nuts, no longer being harvested, fall to the ground. Rats carry them into the forest where they germinate and grow.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 11: 'Awa

Kava
Piper methysticum
Piperaceae, Pepper Family
Polynesian Introduction

Awa was a very important medicinal plant brought to Hawai'i by the Polynesians. Traditionally, 'awa was made into a beverage by chewing the roots, collecting the chewed mass in a bowl, mixing it with water and then straining the fluid through fibers. This drink contains a sedative and was useful as a relaxant and to induce sleep. 'Awa was offered to high-ranking visitors as a sign of hospitality and was also important in religious ceremonies and as an offering to the gods.

Awa is a member of the black pepper family and is an attractive herbaceous plant with unusual-looking jointed stems and heart-shaped leaves. Approximately 18 different varieties were known in Hawai'i. Some of these are still seen today in wet, windward valleys. In other parts of Polynesia, this plant is known as kava. On several Pacific Islands fields of kava are cultivated for commercial use and export.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 12: Octopus Tree, Umbrella Tree

Schefflera actinophylla
Araliaceae, Ginseng Family Modern Introduction

This very aggressive introduced plant has escaped cultivation and become a weed in Limahuli valley within the last 25 years. Although successfully growing schefflera plants indoors is often consid-ered a triumph in temperate climates, the exact opposite is true in Limahuli. This Australian plant has found its optimum grow-ing conditions here and is now rapidly taking over large areas of our native forest.

From spring to fall, flowers and fruit are borne on stiff red branches that radiate outward like the tentacles of an octopus, explaining the origin of its common name in Hawai'i, octopus tree. Birds eat the fruit and spread the seeds far and wide. The octopus tree is able to out-compete most native plants because of its fast growth rate and its ability to grow on nearly any surface. Notice the clump of trees growing directly across the road; they are growing on top of a huge boulder.

Tour Feature 13: Papala kēpau

Pisonia wagneriana
Nyctaginaceae, Four-o'clock Family
Native to Kaua'i

These native papala kepau trees are struggling to maintain their place in the forest. Invasive octopus trees surround them, shading out the sunlight. The slower growing papala kēpau are being forced to put all their energy into growing taller, a seemingly futile attempt to gain more light. This is an example of what is occurring on a much larger scale in many of Hawaii's native forests today.

The Hawaiians found papala kēpau very useful. Their word kēpau refers to the sticky substance that seeps from the elongated fruit surrounding each seed. They spread kēpau onto a twig and attached a flower as bait. The twig was then pushed up into a tree where birds were feeding. When a bird perched on the twig, it stuck long enough for the bird-catcher to collect a few colorful feathers used in decorating cloaks, helmets and kāhili. The bird-catcher then set the bird free to grow new feathers.

Although there are several species of pāpala kēpau in Hawai'i, this species is found naturally only on Kaua'i and nowhere else in the world. When a species is unique to an area it is said to be endemic to that area. Almost 90% of the native Hawaiian flowering plants are endemic to Hawai'i; some are endemic to only a small part of Hawai'i, such as an island, valley or mountain.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 14: Limahuli Stream

Limahuli stream is a beautiful example of a virtually pristine stream, one of the few remaining in Hawai'i. It begins at the top of the valley (3,330 feet above sea-level) and plummets over an 800-foot waterfall before reaching the valley floor and continuing its rush to the sea. Along its journey, it is fed by numerous springs.

The value of fresh water to the Hawaiians is reflected in their language. In Hawaiian, wai is the word for fresh water and waiwai is the word for wealth. Ample fresh water was the essential ingredient for prosperity in the early Hawaiian villages. Today, ample fresh water is sometimes taken for granted.

Many unique animals and plants live in Limahuli stream, including all five species of native Hawaiian freshwater fish. These fish, 'o'opu, evolved from saltwater ancestors in the goby family. Although 'o'opu live in freshwater streams as adults, their fertilized eggs wash downstream, and young 'o'opu must spend the first several months of their lives in the ocean. Four of the 'o'opu species have a very interesting and useful adaptation. Their pelvic fins are fused together to form a suction cup which helps them fasten to rocks, the stream bottom, and even to climb waterfalls.

Limahuli stream is playing an important role in the restoration of degraded streams. The NTBG, the Hawai'i Department of Land and Natural Resources, and the University of Hawai'i have become partners to create the Hawai'i Stream Research Center. Aquatic biologists, assisted by Limahuli staff and volunteers, are collecting and studying information that is necessary to gauge the health of Limahuli and other Hawaiian streams. For further information visit the Hawai'i Stream Research Center Web Site.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 15: Hala

Screwpine
Pandanus tectorius
Pandanaceae, Screwpine Family
Polynesian Introduction & Native to Hawai'i

In prehistoric times, plants in the screwpine family were widely distributed. Fossils have been found in Siberia, Madagascar, Austria and even England. Today screwpines grow throughout Polynesia, Australia and southern Asia. Because it is so widespread, botanists have long wondered whether hala is a native Hawaiian plant or a Polynesian introduction. This question was answered recently when a huge basaltic rock fell from a cliff near Hanalei bay and split in half revealing a fossilized hala plant that predates human discovery of Hawai'i by several million years. Hala is a native plant, but the Polynesians probably brought it too. They relied on the durable hala leaves, lau hala, for many uses. Lau hala was cut into strips and woven into mats, pillows, baskets, interior wall partitions and flooring. The lau hala fibers were tough enough to thatch houses and strong enough to be woven into canoe sails. A plant this useful would certainly have earned a place in their voyaging canoes.

Male and female flowers appear on separate trees. The male flowers, known as hīnano, are surrounded by handsome white bracts about one foot long, which were sometimes woven into fine mats. The female tree bears a fruit that visitors to Hawai'i often confuse with the pineapple, hence its nickname "tourist pineapple." When ripe, the cluster of fruit breaks into separate pieces called keys. The fleshy part of the keys were eaten in times of famine. When keys are dry, the fibrous end forms a natural brush used to paint designs on kapa.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 16: Archaeological Site

The arrangement of rocks in this area are thought to be remnants of home sites built by the ancient Hawaiians. These features have exciting potential for future archaeological research and may provide important information about the early inhabitants of Limahuli valley.

Evidence suggests that Hawai'i was populated by two separate waves of migration from Polynesia. The first migration is believed to have come from the Marquesas Islands about 200 A.D. For nearly 1,000 years, the first settlers developed a simple culture based upon their skills as farmers and fishermen. Their survival depended upon the success of their crops, including many of the plants you have seen on your walk, and the three domesticated animals they brought from Polynesia: chickens, dogs and pigs. (A fourth animal, the rat, was probably introduced by mistake as a stow-away in the canoes!) The Hawaiians' dependence on the land and the forces of nature resulted in a culture that honored nature and respected the land (aina) as a possession of their gods. The Hawaiian phrase mālama 'āina means to care for the land as one would care for a family member. This nurturing relationship with the land is the core of Hawaiian culture and religion. The Hawaiians were stewards, not owners, of their 'āina. This stewardship produced bountiful crops and preserved natural resources.

As Hawaiian 'oHāna (families) grew larger, new settlements were established throughout the islands. As time passed, natural boundaries were established to provide each village with all the natural resources required to be self-sufficient: fresh water, fertile land, and marine life. These sections of land bordered a stream and extended from the mountains to the ocean.

It is believed that a second migration, coming from the Society Islands where Tahiti is located, occurred around 1200-1300. Tahitian laws and beliefs began to blend with and replace those of the original Hawaiians. The society that evolved was based on four different classes of people. The ali'i were rulers - the kings and the chiefs. The.ali'i class had many levels, with rank determined by genealogy, often tracing family lines back to Hāloa, the brother of the kalo plant and the son of the god Wakea, the father of all humankind. The kahuna were skilled - the craftsmen, priests, navigators and teachers. The maka'āinana were the majority - the fishermen, farmers, kapa makers and lau hala weavers. The kaua were the outcasts - those who lost their privileges and often served as slaves and human sacrifices. The kapu were the strict laws that governed society.

The natural division of land into self-sufficient villages became official units known as ahupua'a. Ahupua'a literally means pig altar and refers to the place where food and other goods were placed in payment of taxes to the ali'i. The names of many ahupua'a are familiar today, for example, Ha'ena, Hanalei, Honolulu and Waikīkī. The ali'i controlled the ahupua'a and their konohiki (overseers) served as the managers of the maka'ainana.

For unknown reasons the voyaging between Polynesia and Hawai'i eventually ceased, and the Hawaiian culture continued to evolve with little outside influence for nearly 500 years - until Captain Cook arrived in 1778. By then the Hawaiians had developed a complex social and religious system unrivaled in Polynesia. Historians have compared this social structure to the complex societies which developed in Egypt and Central and South America.

Most of what is known today about the ancient Hawaiian culture is based on the society which developed after the arrival of the Tahitians. Very little is known about the first Hawaiians, those arriving 1,000 years earlier. Ancient tales and chants hint at their lives, and many believe the menehune of ancient legends are these first Hawaiians. It is possible that some of the secrets about their lives are hidden in the ground right under your feet.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 17: Loulu

Pritchardia limahuliensis
Arecaceae, Palm Family
Native to Kaua'i

Pritchardia limahuliensis was discovered as a new species by Chipper Wichman and Steve Perlman on a trip into Limahuli valley in 1977. The genus Pritchardia is the only palm genus native to Hawai'i. There are about 25 species of Pritchardia found on tropical Pacific islands; approximately 20 species are endemic (unique) to Hawai'i. This particular species, limahuliensis, is endemic to Limahuli valley. The leaves of Pritchardia palms are fan-shaped, which distinguishes them from the feather-shaped leaves of the Polynesian-introduced coconut palm and the many recently introduced palms used in landscaping.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 18: Lama

Diospyros sandwicensis
Ebenaceae, Ebony or Persimmon Family
Native to Hawai'i

You may be familiar with trees and shrubs in the ebony family. They are known for their dark hard wood. Two species are endemic to Hawai'i and were once relatively common in dry forests at lower elevations. Because lama grows very slowly, this large tree must be quite old, perhaps a survivor of the original forest.

The Hawaiian word, lama, means light or lamp. In the case of this tree, lama is believed to mean enlightenment. Lama wood provided the framework for temple houses dedicated to hula. A block of lama, wrapped in yellow kapa which had been scented with 'ōlena, was placed on the altar to represent Laka, the goddess of hula. The hard, red-brown wood was also used to build traps for deep water fish and was pulverized and mixed with other ingredients to make compresses for treatment of skin sores. Lama trees bear a small fruit which is pleasantly sweet when ripe.

Tour Feature 19: Makana Mountain

Spectacular Makana mountain towers above Limahuli valley. Although it is commonly referred to as Bali Hai, the name popularized by the movie South Pacific, the ancient Hawaiians named it Makana, meaning gift. This name gives us an indication of the importance of Makana mountain in ancient Hawai'i. Please help to keep our ancient Hawaiian place names alive by using them whenever you can.

Makana mountain is one of only two locations where the famous fire throwing ceremony 'oahi, was performed in ancient times. The 'oahi was a celebration of very special occasions such as the graduation of students from the famous hula school at Kē'ē or the visit of a high chief. On the day of the ceremony, skilled firethrowers climbed the steep cliffs to the very top of Makana mountain laden with light, dry logs of pāpala or hau. When night fell, they set the logs afire and hurled them out over the ocean. Updrafts created by the tradewinds hitting the sheer cliff of Makana kept the firebrands aloft, soaring as far as a mile out to sea. Imagine the show they saw: a night sky filled with sparks and fiery torches tracing arcs of light from Makana to the sea.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 20: Autograph Tree

Clusea rosea
Guttiferae, Mangosteen Family
Modern Introduction

In the West Indies the leaves of the autograph tree were marked and then used for playing cards. Introduced to Hawai'i for its ornamen-tal leathery leaves, light pink flowers, and attractive green fruit, the tree has become an invasive weed in many areas of Hawai'i. Its seeds are dispersed by birds throughout the islands.

In Limahuli the autograph tree is becoming increasingly common in the forest. The aerial roots of this tree can strangle nearby plants to death. As you can see, this autograph tree is in the process of strangling an octopus tree.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 21: Manako

Mango
Mangifera indica
Anacardiaceae, Mango Family
Modern Introduction

Native to India, the mango was brought to Hawai'i in the 1800s because of its delicious fruit which ripens in summer. Since its introduction, mango has escaped cultivation and is now very common in the Hawaiian forest. Once you are able to identify a mango tree, you will see them growing throughout Limahuli Garden and all around Kaua'i. The new leaves and flowers of mango trees range in color from rusty pink to red and cover the tops of the trees during the winter and spring. These huge trees form a dense canopy and cast dark shadows on plants growing nearby.

Although mango is a favorite fruit to many, some people may develop severe reactions after eating it. Mango is in the same family as poison oak and poison ivy, and the leaves and skin of the fruit contain a resin that may cause a rash.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 22: Kuawa

Guava
Psidium guajava
Myrtaceae, Myrtle Family
Modern Introduction

Commercial guava was introduced to Hawai'i from tropical America in the early 1800s. The fruit is two to three inches in diameter and has yellow skin when ripe. The inner pink or cream flesh is filled with small, hard, kidney-shaped seeds. The fruit can be eaten fresh or used to make jam, jelly and juice. The nutritious fruit contains iron, calcium, phosphorus and more vitamin C than oranges. Guava Kai Plantation near Kīlauea is open to the public and provides visitors the opportunity to see a guava orchard and to learn about guava juice production.

Guava plants have been spread throughout the islands by cattle, horses, birds and pigs because guava's hard seeds are not destroyed during digestion. In summer the plentiful fruit provides a breeding ground for Oriental and Mediterranean fruit flies. The possible presence of fruit flies in most Hawaiian-grown fruit is the reason export to the mainland is carefully regulated. Only fruit that has been treated and packaged to eradicate unwanted insects is allowed into the continental United States, Japan and other fruit fly-free countries.

Tour Feature 23: Waiawi

Yellow Strawberry Guava
Psidium cattleianum var. littorale
Myrtaceae, Myrtle Family
Modern Introduction

Commonly known as yellow strawberry guava, this modern introduction has been given the Hawaiian name waiawi. It is a close relative of the common guava tree. When Mrs. Wichman began developing the Garden in the late 1960s, waiawi was the dominant tree in the lower forest. Its competitive advantages come from its edible fruit, which assures seed dispersal by birds and feral animals, and its roots' ability to inhibit the growth of other plants. If you look closely, you will see that the roots form a dense mat which is a physical barrier to the growth of other plants. Botanists have discovered that the roots also secrete a toxic substance which chemically inhibits other plants from growing nearby. Many of the stumps you see in the Garden are waiawi trees that were cut down to provide space for other plants.

As a landscape specimen, this Brazilian tree has many desirable qualities. Its shiny, smooth bark looks hand-polished, and its form is a graceful living sculpture. On the downhill portion of the tour you will walk through the shade of a remaining grove of waiawi.

Pictures taken at this site:

Tour Feature 24: Conservation

Conservation of Native Plants in Limahuli Garden. The vision of Mrs. Juliet Rice Wichman who acquired this property in 1967, and the mission of the National Tropical Botanical Garden to protect endangered species, have combined to support an important conservation effort in Limahuli Garden and Preserve. Mrs. Wichman inspired her grandson, Chipper Wichman, to continue her dream. Under his direction, NTBG botanists and staff are replanting natives throughout Limahuli Garden. The goal is to gradually replace the introduced trees with natives so that the forest will once again resemble the unique variety of plants familiar to the early Hawaiians.

In the 985-acre Limahuli Preserve, located in the valley above Limahuli Garden, a natural forest is being protected and aided in its recovery from the devastation of hurricane Iniki in 1992. Seeds and cuttings are collected from the natural-growing plants in the Preserve and propagated in the nursery at the Lāwa'i Garden. Some of these young natives are being planted back into Limahuli Preserve where they will be protected, and others are being planted in the 17 acres of Limahuli Garden where they are available for you to see and botanists to study.

Nearly all of the native plants being replanted in the Garden are extremely rare. Why should we care if they live or die? Here are a few reasons to consider.

Plants are essential to our survival. Without plants, animals would have nothing to eat or breathe. Plants use the energy of the sun to convert water and carbon dioxide into food and oxygen. Most of our Pharmaceuticals, fibers, and dyes come from plants. The possibility of discovering new and useful products vanishes with every plant extinction. And, of course, the possibility of our own extinction exists if too many plants on this earth are lost.

Variety is valuable. Variety is not only "the spice of life," it is also nature's way of assuring that some individuals will survive when changes in the environment occur. Each species has its own range of tolerance for various environmental conditions, and, within each species, every individual is slightly different from the others. When change occurs, some individuals will survive and others will not. The more variety or biodiversity there is, the more likely it is that sufficient life will survive when inevitable and unpredictable changes affect the environment. Yet hundreds of species of unique Hawaiian plants are on the verge of dying out completely. Approximately 100 Hawaiian species are already extinct and another 100 species have fewer than 200 plants remaining in the wild. Each lost species is gone forever, and each loss weakens nature's insurance policy for future survival.

Plants represent history. Over millions of years, the diverse climatic conditions of the Hawaiian Islands allowed the pioneering plants to evolve into new species through a process known as adaptive radiation. Many familiar families of plants developed uncommon characteristics in Hawai'i. For example, no more than five ancestral plants in the bell-flower family (Campanulaceae) have evolved into five new genera and over 100 new species. Although the ancestral plants were most likely small herbaceous plants, some of these bellflowers evolved into trees over 30 feet tall in Hawai'i. The ālula plant, Feature #27, is an example of a unique adaptation from this family. The directions taken in the evolution of species in the isolation of Hawai'i are fascinating and revealing. It is a natural scientific experiment of epic proportions, and unfortunately, the results are being lost even before they can be studied.

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Tour Feature 25: Munroidendron racemosum

Araliaceae, Ginseng Family
Native to Kaua'i
Endangered Species

Plants such as Munroidendron are subject to habitat destruction caused by grazing animals and introduced weeds. Today, the Munroidendron occurs naturally in only four locations on Kaua'i. In spite of its near extinction in the wild, this graceful tree thrives in cultivation and has great potential as a landscape plant. See if you can spot other Munroidendron trees nearby. Several with interesting shapes and occasional blooms are located down the slope and to the right. If you remember to look, you will see a mature specimen of Munroidendron at the end of your tour. It stands along the road across from the visitor parking area.

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Tour Feature 26: Pāpala

Charpentiera elliptica
Amaranthaceae, Amaranth Family
Native to Kaua'i

Charpentiera elliptica is endemic to Kaua'i and is common in parts of the native forest, particularly in the Kōke'e area. This young tree will probably reach 20 feet at maturity. Pāpala was the favorite wood for the ancient Hawaiian fire throwing ceremony called 'oahi. Dried logs of pāpala are hollow, making them easy to burn and light enough to soar on the updrafts. The 'oahi ceremony was performed at only two locations in Hawai'i: the top of Makana mountain and the cliff at Nu'alolo on Nā Pali coast. This special ceremony was a favorite of the Hawaiian people who watched with delight from their canoes and on the land. Some believed that catching a firebrand thrown from the top of Makana would prove their affection for the one they loved. This romantic thought plays a part in the legend of Nou o Makana which is told at Feature #33

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Tour Feature 27: Brighamia insignis

Campanulaceae, Bellflower Family
Native to Kaua'i and Ni'ihau Endangered Species

Its unusual appearance - some say it looks like a cabbage on a baseball bat - and its fragile hold in the wild has endeared the ālula to plant lovers around the world. The fact that the ālula is here in the Garden today can be attributed to the NTBG's dedicated botanists. For more than two decades, staff members have rappelled down cliffs to monitor the wild populations of these plants. Season after season they have checked the health and vigor of the plants, filled in for absent pollinators and collected some of the seeds. Perhaps you've seen their efforts showcased on the National Geographic television special, Strangers in Paradise. Propagation of the ālula has been so successful that more plants exist within the boundaries of the NTBG than in the wild. These propagated plants allow botanists to study and preserve the ālula and to reintroduce it into protected wild habitats.

Tour Feature 28: Iliau

Wilkesia gymnoxiphium
Asteraceae, Sunflower Family Native to Kaua'i

Iliau and the famous silversword of Haleakalā Crater on Maui are believed to share the same ancestor, a tarweed from western North America. The similarity of these very unique Hawaiian plants to other members of the sunflower family is obvious only when they bloom. Iliau can grow 8 feet tall, and the tuft of leaves at the top of the slender, hollow stem gives it a palm-like appearance. At maturity this plant forms a flower stalk up to four feet high which grows from the center of its leafy top. Hundreds of yellow, sticky, daisy-like flowers arranged in whorls around the central blooming stalk create a fountain of bloom. After this spectacular floral display the plant dies. Two species of Wilkesia are known; both are endemic to Kaua'i. A short trail along the rim of Waimea Canyon is another location that preserves and displays these fascinating plants.

Tour Feature 29: Koki'o Ke'oke'o

White Hibiscus
Hibiscus waimeae ssp. hannerae
Malvaceae, Mallow Family
Native to Kaua'i
Endangered Species

Originally discovered in 1913, Hibiscus waimeae ssp. hannerae was thought to be extinct until it was rediscovered in Limahuli Preserve by the NTBG staff in 1976. Nestled in the protective environment at the back of the valley, 30-foot-tall trees of this unique hibiscus had managed to survive! The attractive flowers have a delicate fragrance and bloom throughout the year. This endangered native hibiscus has great potential as a landscape plant in Hawai'i.

You can see that a beetle has eaten holes in the leaves of this plant. One of the many challenges of growing native species is finding a way to protect them from the large number of introduced insects now thriving in Hawai'i. In some cases, the survival of Hawaii's native plants in the wild and in cultivation may be determined by their ability to resist the attacks of introduced insects.

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Tour Feature 30: Viewpoint - Pōhaku-o-Kāne

Listen (MP3) to the legend of Pōhaku-o-Kāne

Limahuli valley is the setting for several ancient legends. Find a comfortable place to sit and enjoy the legend of Pōhaku-o-Kāne. Long before humans discovered Kaua'i, a family of three huge rocks, two brothers and a sister, were seeking a new home. They rolled across the ocean floor, visiting several islands and atolls before finally arriving at the north shore of Kaua'i. As they approached the shore, they were refreshed by the fresh water of Limahuli stream. Breaking the surface, they saw that they were on a reef surrounded by fish. The colors of the land, ocean, sky, and clouds delighted them.

O'o-a'a, the sister, was enchanted with this spot and decided to stay. Basking in the warm sun and lulled by the sound of waves, she soon fell asleep. The brothers, wanting to go inland, rolled onto the sandy beach. After a while the younger brother, Pōhaku-loa, stopped to rest in the shade of hala trees. Enjoying the rustling leaves and cool breeze, he decided to stay. Although his older brother pleaded with him to continue up the mountain, Pōhaku-loa contentedly fell asleep.

The older brother continued alone, intending to climb to the top of the mountain. When he reached the pali (cliff) his strength and determination were not enough. He faltered and fell. Again and again he tried to reach the top, refusing to give up. Eventually, the great god Kane noticed this ambitious rock and went to investigate. He asked the rock why he was struggling so hard to reach the top. The rock replied, "Because I want to be where I can watch the world below."

Kāne pointed out that it didn't matter where the older brother was, for he would surely fall asleep as his brother and sister had. The older brother insisted that he would remain awake. Kāne decided that this determined rock would never give up, that he would continue to climb and fall until all that remained of him was dust. So Kāne and the rock made a deal. Kāne lifted the older brother and placed him on the top of the mountain ridge. In return the rock promised to stay awake and watch and remember all that went on below him. Then Kāne said, "When I come again, you must tell me what you have seen. When you are ready to go, the island will sink beneath the waters and the waves will climb up to you. Then you and your brother and sister may begin to travel again. Until then, watch and remember."

To this day Pohaku-o-Kāne, which means Stone of Kāne, sits wakeful on the mountain top, and all is well.

To see Pōhaku-o-Kāne, stand facing the ocean near the hala tree. Then gradually turn to the right until you see the large rock perched precariously at the top of the ridge on the east side of the valley.

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Tour Feature 31: 'Ōhi'a

Metrosideros polymorpha
Myrtaceae, Myrtle Family
Native to Hawai'i

These 'ōhi'a trees represent a remnant of the native forest that once flourished in the valley. The beautiful 'ōhi'a has adapted to a wide range of habitats. It can be found as a small colonizer on new lava flows, as a natural bonsai in the bogs of Kaua'i, and as the tallest tree in the rainforest, where native birds feed on the sweet nectar of its colorful flowers, lehua.

The 'ōhi'a is highly esteemed in Hawaiian culture, and is the subject of songs, dances, chants and legends. The unopened buds, flowers, and young silvery leaves were combined to make stunning lei. Straight sturdy lengths of 'ōhi'a wood were used in house construction, especially for rafters. Hardwood carvings of temple gods were made from the 'ōhi'a tree. Today this tree continues to provide beautiful materials for lei making, and its reddish-colored wood is used to create gifts of special value. Commercial bee farmers market honey made from its sweet blossoms.

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Tour Feature 32: Koa

Acacia koaia
Fabaceae, Pea Family Native to Hawai'i

Acacia is a widespread genus of about 1,200 species, many of which are native to Australia. Three closely related species are endemic to Hawai'i. Acacia koa, a large tree up to 100 feet, was often the dominant tree in dry to wet forests on all the main islands. Nearly 50 endemic species of insects live on koa trees for some or all of their lives, an indication of its ancient origin here. Interdependence between different species results from eons of evolution tying them together as sources of food, shelter or pollination. When ecosystems are disturbed, this delicate balance begins to unravel.

Koa wood is very strong. The huge trunks were carved into canoes large enough to withstand the heavy wind, treacherous waves and strong currents of the ocean. Today, many extraordinary pieces of furniture and other wood carvings are made from koa. Unfortunately, koa trees are becoming increasingly rare, and this precious resource now needs protection. The species featured here, Acacia koaia, was once common on the northern coast of Kaua'i but is rarely seen today The many young trees in Limahuli Garden were propagated in the NTBG nursery.

Hawaiian Acacia species have two leaf forms. The juvenile form with finely divided "true leaves" has the lacy appearance of many Acacia species. "Mature leaves" follow which are actually flattened leaf stems known as phyllodes. The curved phyllodes resemble small sickles and are a distinguishing characteristic of koa trees.

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Tour Feature 33: Legend of Nou o Makana

Listen (MP3) to the legend of Nou o Makana

Long ago, a young boy named Nou wanted to hurl a firebrand from the top of Makana mountain during the 'oahi ceremony. He pestered the older firethrowers to let him come with them, but they said he was too young to participate in such an important ceremony. One day a great chief came to Hā'ena hoping to catch a firebrand which would prove his affection for a woman who doubted his love. On the day of the ceremony Nou decided to secretly follow the firethrowers up the steep trail. His legs were short and he struggled to keep up. Finally, as night fell, he was forced to stop and rest. From the darkness he heard a voice calling to him, "help, help." An old menehune was trapped under a fallen rock. Nou helped to push the rock away which saved the menehune's life. For if the menehune had been trapped until daybreak and touched by a ray of the sun, he would have turned to stone. Out of gratitude, the menehune promised to help Nou throw his firebrand the farthest that night.

When Nou reached the top of the mountain, the firethrowers were furious with him for climbing the mountain and breaking the kapu. The appropriate punishment was death, but Nou challenged them to let him throw just one firebrand. If it didn't fly farthest of all, then they could kill him. When it was Nou's turn, he threw with all his might, but the burning log fell straight down the cliff. At the moment when Nou's life appeared to be over, the firebrand suddenly soared into the sky. A chilling wind from the mountains had blown over the firethrowers and captured the firebrand, causing it to dance in the sky all the way to the farthest canoe where it fell into the chief's hand.

This incredible throw made Nou very happy and famous. The chief was so grateful he gave Nou many riches. Everyone loved Nou. Everyone, that is, except the older firethrowers. They had been made to look weak and foolish, and they hated Nou! This hate consumed them, and they finally decided to kill Nou. They invited him to participate in the next 'oahi ceremony and killed him on the climb up the mountain. That night, when the ceremony was over, they slept on the mountain and returned to Nou's body at dawn. They planned to throw him off the cliff so that it would appear that Nou had accidentally fallen to his death. Blocking their way, however, was the menehune. He was facing the rising sun and mostly turned to stone, but he used his final breath to shout curses at the firethrowers. "May your bones ache and your footsteps be painful forever." Immediately the curse took effect and that group of firethrowers were never again able to climb Makana to throw their fiery branches.

As for the loyal menehune, you can see him standing there still. He guards Nou's grave just as he did so long ago, reminding us of the young boy named Nou who was once the greatest firethrower of Makana mountain.

You can see the menehune by looking up at Makana mountain. Follow Makana's profile to the left until you see the prominent vertical rock sticking up from the cliff about halfway down the side of the mountain.

Tour Feature 34: Melia

Frangipani, Plumeria
Plumeria spp.
Apocynaceae, Periwinkle Family
Modern Introduction

Sweet, long-lasting plumeria flowers are favorites for stringing into colorful, fragrant lei. Plumeria trees were introduced to Hawai'i from tropical America in 1860. Hobbyists and commercial nurseries worldwide have developed hundreds of plumeria varieties based on the color, shape, size and scent of the flowers.

Most plumeria trees lose their leaves in the winter. The reappearance of flowers and leaves signals the coming of spring throughout Hawai'i. A highly prized species from the WestIndies, known as Singapore plumeria, is evergreen and bears leaves and flowers throughout the year. All plumeria trees grow easily from cuttings of the thick, succulent branches. The milky sap is poisonous in large doses.

If the plumeria trees are in bloom, take a minute to enjoy the wonderful fragrance. Plumeria blossoms can fill the balmy, summer air with their perfume.

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Tour Feature 35: Naupaka

Scaevola sericea
Goodeniaceae, Goodenia Family
Native to Hawai'i

This species of beach naupaka is native to Hawai'i and other tropical and subtropical Pacific and Indian Ocean coasts. It is common along Hawaiian coasts and is even cultivated in gardens. The naupaka flower's unusual shape has inspired several wonderful legends.

One legend is about the famous hula school located at the base of Makana mountain near Kē'ē beach. The students of this school were expected to obey very strict kapu and protocols. Memorizing the long and complicated Hawaiian chants and dances demanded their complete attention. One night the head of the school, Kilioe, heard the splashes of someone crossing Limahuli stream. She left her bed to follow the sound of the footsteps. Much to her surprise and anger, two of her best students, Nanau and Kapaka, were together in defiance of the hula kapu. When she caught up to them near Lumaha'i beach, she called their names and demanded that they stop. Instead, they ran ahead. They were lovers and each was determined to protect the other's life. The young man, Nanau, hid Kapaka in a cave and tried to divert Kilioe's attention by running up the mountain. But when Kilioe chased after Nanau, Kapaka stepped out of her cave to block the way. Blinded by her rage, Kilioe swung her staff at the girl and killed her. Kilioe then ran up the mountain after Nanau. When Nanau saw that Kapaka was dead, he turned toward Kilioe, accepting death as a way to rejoin his lover.

The next morning fishermen reported finding a new plant growing from the sand at the site of Kapaka's death. It was a beautiful shrub, but the flowers formed only half a circle. That same day bird-catchers discovered a new plant growing in the mountains where Nanau died. The flowers of this new mountain plant formed only half a circle. The goddess of hula, Laka, had changed these lovers into two plants, the beach naupaka and the mountain naupaka, which are separated forever. But in this legend their names and flowers join and become one.

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